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"One who has not seen Lahore has not really born", says an ancient Punjabi
maxim. Lahore is one of very few cities in the world, which cherish their
own culture. Its dialect, culture, traditions, cuisine and air are
particularly Lahori and nothing else. Lahore, being the provincial capital
of Punjab, is a center of cultural and political activities. It is an
abode of poets, saints, philosophers and artists. It is also a citadel of
education and learning. The present day Lahore is clearly divided into the
old and the new city (more precisely, northern and southern Lahore). The
old city that was once enclosed by twelve gigantic gates has now grown in
all directions making the central city. Narrow winding streets, historical
monuments, grand havelis, crowded bazaars and cuisine centers characterize
the old city. Modern architecture, open boulevards and fashionable
shopping malls make the southern part of the city. Both wings are
separated by the city's most beautiful avenue - The Mall.
HISTORY
Early history of Lahore is very obscure. Archeological excavations of 1956
revealed a few pieces of pottery, which are the only evidence of city's
existence in the sixth century. However, archeologists believe that Lahore
existed even in the first century. Actually, the city has changed so many
names during the course of time that it is not possible to give a tangible
proof of its existence in early ages. The city is said to have been
founded by Alexander the Great in the memory of his famous horse. Another
account mentions the establishment of a city by Alexander's slaves. There
is also a mention of Loharpur in the famous Sanskrit epic, Ramayana.
According to a Hindu tradition, the city was named after Loh, the son of
Rama (Shri Ramchandar). Some traces of the temple of Loh can be seen in
the Lahore Fort even today. It is also believed that the name 'Lahore' has
come from Aryan language, which means 'city of fort.' The present day fort
of Lahore was constructed on the remains of an ancient fort. A famous
Greek explorer, Ptolemy, describes the establishment of "Labokla" in 145
A.D., which was perhaps the first name of Lahore. The city, later, changed
names like Parchhitpura, Samand Pal Nagari, Udinagar, El Ahwar and
Loharpur until it assumed its present name.
Lahore was a major city of Hindu Shahi kingdom of the sub-continent in
1000 A.D. Although, Muhammad bin Qasim had introduced Islam in this part
of the world in 712 A.D. yet the city was under direct influence of Hindu
majority. Lahore came into limelight in 1021 A.D. when Sultan Mahmood
Ghaznavi defeated Jaypal, Anandpal and Trilochan Pal to capture the
Punjab. Sultan Mahmood established his strong hold over the city and
encouraged physical, cultural, commercial and military development. His
successors spared huge money for the development of the city so much so
that the city could rival Baghdad and Ghazni.
Lahore emerged as a great center of Muslim culture in India. It attracted
many poets and scholars like Abu Fajr, Masood Razi and Masood bin Sa'ad
Salman. A number of mystics like Data Ganj Baksh and Imam Hassan al
Sanghani flocked here and gave momentum to religious and cultural life of
the city. The city went into the hands of Shahab Uddin Ghauri who used it
as his base camp and garrison. Two coins are the only evidence of that
period. One of them, held by Lahore museum, was minted in the days of
Shahab Uddin in Mahmudpur (another name of Lahore). The other was coined
in Ghazni in 1025 A.D.
From 1106 to 1270 A.D., Lahore saw nothing but violence, intrigues and
plunder. This was the time of political instability in India. Relief came
with the coronation of Altutmish. He restored the lost glory of the city
and saved it from Mongol invasions. However, Mongols made their way in
1241. They performed a very ruthless bloodshed and burnt the city to
ashes. Most of the inhabitants evacuated the city for good. Hardly anybody
lived in the ruins for the next thirty years and those who lived had no
hope of revival. This time Balban came for rescue. He was one of the most
powerful monarchs of India. He realized the strategic importance of
Lahore. It was situated half way between Delhi and Ghazni and could serve
as excellent defense line against invaders. Balban appointed his own son,
Prince Mohammad, as the governor of Lahore and built many forts to protect
it. Prince Mohammad was an accomplished warrior but he did not lack softer
feelings for arts and letters. He was a kind patron of Amir Khusro, the
father of Urdu literature and famously known as 'the parrot of India.
The untimely death of Prince Mohammad removed Lahore from historical sight
for the next 250 years. The city remained unprotected against invaders
like Khokhars who raided over Lahore many a times. Only Taimurlane had the
courage to drive them away in order to solely plunder the city. His army
men, however, founded a suburb near Lahore called Mughalpura, which exists
even to this day. The later kings of Delhi used Lahore only as a fortress.
It was in the days of Lodhi's that some buildings like Niwin Masjid,
Madrassa Kala Shah Kaku, Madrassa Feroz Gilani and Khangah of Hazrat Abdul
Jalil were erected. The Lodhis surrendered Lahore at the hands of Babar -
the first Mughal emperor.
This was the beginning of the golden period of the Muslim civilization.
The Mughals raised Islamic art to its premium. Lahore was a chief
beneficiary during this period of splendor and grandeur. Lahore, for a
brief period, went into the hands of Sher Shah Suri. He laid down an
extensive network of roads of which Grand Trunk Road is very famous. Sher
Shah died in battlefield. He regretted in his last moments for not
destroying Lahore because it was from Lahore that he faced fatal
rebellions. Lahore went back into the hands of Mughals.
The Mughals had a very refined taste for beauty and architecture, which
they manifested in elegant and imposing buildings. The kings bestowed
royal favor to poets, philosophers, masons, mystics and artisans. They
turned Lahore into the cultural capital of their mighty empire. Mughals
had come from mountainous region of the Central Asia so they did not like
hot and inhospitable climate of Delhi. They chose Lahore. Babar writes in
his memoirs,
"The country has few pleasures to recommend it. The people are not
handsome… They have no good horses, no good fish, no grapes or muskmelons,
no good fruits, no ice or cold water, no good food and bread in their
bazaars, no baths or colleges… In their buildings they study neither
elegance nor climate not appearance nor regularity."
The Mughals missed the cool climate, fresh breeze, clean water and lush
green orchards of their native land. They decorated their empire
especially Lahore with delightful gardens of which Shalimar Garden of
Lahore is the most famous. The Mughal kings had an equal passion for guns
and fine arts. Their patronage flourished the art of weaving, calligraphy,
painting and masonry so much so that Abul Fazl described Lahore as 'the
grandest resort of all nations.'
The fall of Mughal dynasty brought an end to the dignity and splendor of
their empire. The crown of India went into the hands of the British in
1857 for the next 90 years. A few Victorian and Mughal-Gothic style
buildings are the witness of this nightmarish era. The Sikhs and the
British made irreparable losses to unmatched beauty of Lahore, yet it can
claim to be one of the most charming cities even today. The famous Mughal
empress Noor Jehan has expressed her love for Lahore in these words,
"I have purchased Lahore with my life.
By giving my life for Lahore,
Actually I have purchased another Paradise" |
HISTORICAL SITES IN LAHORE
Lahore is famously known as 'the city of historical monuments'. Except
modern and a few Victorian and Sikh establishments, almost all historical
buildings date back to the Mughal Era. The oldest of them is Kamran's
Baradari [Kamran's Pavilion]. This simple yet beautiful monument has
been marooned on a little island by the river Ravi. A few minutes rowing
takes to the pavilion. It is said to have been linked with the Lahore Fort
with a tunnel though no remains of it are found today. A three-storey
mosque can be seen from the pavilion. It is situated in the way from the
pavilion to Jehangir's tomb. Islam Shah Suri, the son of Sher Shah Suri,
built this mosque. Outside the city stands the mausoleum of Jehangir.
The mausoleum is enclosed by Akbari Sarai. Shah Jehan constructed
it for the ease of travelers who used to stay, cook food or take short
rest during their journey. It was used as a railway depot during the
British rule. The entire construction is beautifully located in a lush
green garden. Inside the enclosure is a square building built in red stone
with white marble inlay. It is Jehangir's tomb. The building consists of
several beautifully decorated corridors that open into the central chamber
and the grave. The corridors and the central chamber display excellent
work of calligraphy. Opposite to Jehangir's tomb are tombs of his wife
Noor Jehan and her brother, Asif Khan.
"No lamp burns, no flower blooms,
Neither any lark mourns over my doom."
[Persian inscription on the headstone of Noor Jehan's grave] |
Lahore Fort is another historical sight. Akbar, for the first time,
built this supreme architectural monument on the foundations of an old
mud-brick fort. Many Mughal emperors contributed to its construction.
Before Akbar, Lahore was protected by earthen works. He leveled and
replaced it with Lahore Fort, a brick wall and twelve daunting gates of
which Akbari Gate is the most eminent. Opposite to this gate stands
Maryam Zamani Mosque. This is one of the oldest surviving monuments
of Mughals. It is named after Akbar's wife. The mosque is decorated with
geometrical patterns, floral motifs and calligraphical inscriptions. The
fresco work of the mosque is considered the best of Mughal frescos ever
found.
One of the oldest constructions inside the fort is Daulat
Khana-e-Khas-o-Aam [Hall of Private and Public Attendants]. Internal
decor of the halls is still intact including some traces of gold work,
which reminds the original glory of the halls. There are several galleries
and chambers attached to the halls. All of them have been adorned with
fresco and floral motifs. The halls lead to Jharoka (Royal Balcony) where
emperors used to appear before public and examine elephant march. The
balcony is made of white marble and supported with brackets of red stone.
The flat roof above the hall presents a spectacular view of Jehangir's
quadrangle below. Most of the area is occupied with garden laid in
geometrical beds around a central pool. The pool contains more than thirty
fountains. On eastern and western sides are some lodges made of red stone.
The columns and brackets of these lodges carry sculpted forms of animals
like lions and elephants. This shows the non-muslim influence on Mughal
architecture. On the northern side, stands Jehangir's Khawabgah [Jehangir's
Sleeping Apartment]. These days it houses a museum containing Mughal
monuments. On western side, stands Hamam [Royal Bath]. Hot and cold water
was supplied to it with a complex water system. The Sikhs destroyed the
system and dug up the marble flooring. Lal Burj and Khilwat
Khana [Private Chamber] are also situated nearby. The British used
them as bar and bathroom respectively. Then there are Paien Bagh
and Moti Masjid [Pearl Mosque, matchless in simplicity, elegance
and beauty].
On the northwestern side of the fort is a grand entrance exclusively used
by the emperors. Behind the gate is a flight of 58 steps, which leads to
Shah Burj, Nolakkha and Shish Mehal. Nolakkha is an
elegant construction in marble with a curving roof. Shish Mehal [Palace of
Mirrors] is an excellent blend of columns and arches covered with round
and convex mirrors.
The famous Picture Wall is another work of great beauty. The entire
745 square meter glazed surface depicts pictures from daily life and
excursions of the kings besides geometrical and floral patterns.
Badshahi Mosque is situated outside the Lahore Fort. It is one of
the biggest mosques in the world with a capacity of more than 100,000
worshippers. The entrance is a tall gate with a central arch and high
minarets on both sides. Its interior walls are elaborately decorated with
fresco. The gate opens into a wide courtyard. Right and Left walls of the
courtyard contain 80 hujras [cells] that were used as study rooms. The
main building is crowned with onion shaped white marble dooms. Dooms of
similar type are found on each minaret of the mosque. One of the minarets
houses a small museum where relics of The Holy Prophet (Peace be upon him)
have been kept on display. The contrast of red and white marble enhances
the beauty of the mosque.
Hazuri Bagh, Samadhi of Ranjeet Singh and the tombs of
Allama Iqbal and Arjun Dave are situated outside the mosque.
Mughal's love for architecture and their refined taste for beauty have
been fully manifested in Shalimar Gardens. It is situated on G.T.
Road, some six kilometers from the city's center. A six meters wide canal,
its offshoots and countless fountains lavishly beautify the garden.
Fountains usually play from 10 to 11 am and 4 to 5 pm in summer and 11 am
to noon and 3 to 4 pm in winter. The garden is divided into three
terraces. Each terrace is divided into quarters by water channels. The top
terrace is called Farhat Bakhsh and the lowest is Faiz Bakhsh. There are
halls, sleeping chambers, gateways and towers. All of them speak for
aesthetic sense of their builder. UNICEF has listed Shalimar Gardens as
world heritage.
Lahore has much more to offer. Chauburji, Wazir Khan Mosque, Golden
Mosque, Jinnah Garden, Jinnah Library, Government College, Minar-e-Pakistan,
Dai Anga's Mosque, Summit Minar and tombs of Anarkali, Ali Mardan, Data
Gunj Bakhsh are a few names. Do not forget to walk through interior
Lahore. Contact TDCP [Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab] for
guided tours.
PEOPLE OF LAHORE
Lahories have in inborn capacity for entertainment. They love fun, food
and festivity. Friendliness and hospitality are their second nature.
Lahore is a metropolitan city. It is a home of more than 6 million people.
Most of the people work in government and private offices or run their own
business. A few own industries and the slum dwellers are laborers, beggars
or unemployed. Not every Lahori is a true Lahori. A large number of people
are those who have come from neighboring cities and village for their
livelihood. Many are those who came to get education and decided to live
here for good.
Like all Pakistanis, the people of Lahore are devotees of saints. They are
frequent visitors of tombs especially on annual celebrations (Urs).
Lahories love fun, food and festivity. They are friendly and hospitable.
LAHORE TODAY
Today's Lahore is a proud treasurer of its ancient and modern
civilizations. The modern city exhibits most spectacular architecture,
growing business centers and spacious avenues. It is progressive and ever
changing whereas the old city cherishes its old traditions and lifestyle.
While passing through the old city it seems as if one is passing through
time. Its narrow, winding streets and tall, mysterious buildings are
enough to overpower your sensations. Its nostalgic atmosphere makes you
forget the hurry and worry of the modern life. However, as you step into a
crowded street, its noise jolts your nerves and brings you back to the
present. In fact, the city has not forgotten to keep pace with time. The
city has become a hub of commercial activities due to the recent growth of
industry. Most of the industrial units are located outside the city. They
produce chemicals, textile items, machinery and many other products of
domestic and industrial use. The local industry produces hosiery,
garments, leather goods, shoes and light machinery.
Lahore has another things to be proud of - its educational centers. It is
a city of colleges and universities. A good number of country's top
ranking institutes are situated in Lahore. The city welcomes hundreds of
students every year from all over the country. It is a training ground for
poets, philosophers, artists, politicians and scientists. Lahore has
contributed to the education of many figures of international fame.
Words and phrases cannot capture the real picture of Lahore. It must be
seen to appreciate its real charm and splendor. The inhabitants and lovers
of Lahore describe the city in one phrase, "Lahore, Lahore Aay." [Lahore
is Lahore.]
GENERAL INFORMATION
Lahore is situated some 700 feet (213 meters) above sea level on alluvial
planes of the Punjab. The weather changes from very hot [in summer] to
cold [in winter] and pleasant [in spring] through out the year.
The summer season [May to August] is long and very hot with an average
temperature of 42 ° C [107 ° F]. Winters are always cold and mostly dry.
The average temperature is 10 ° C [50 ° F]. October to March is the best
time to visit.
Electricity: 220v, 50Hz
Time: GMT+ 5
Emergency Number: 15
Telephony: Country code: 092, Area code: 042
Traffic: over crowded roads in city's center especially during rush hours
Pollution: noisy, smoky and dusty air in the central city, clean air in
vicinity |
