Skardu Climbing Trekking Tours Hiking k-2 Expeditions in pakistan

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Skardu is the district headquarters of Baltistan, the largest district of the northern areas of Pakistan. It is situated on the left bank of River Indus, just 8 km (5 miles) above its confluence with the river Shigar. The valley is bordered by Ladakh (in India) on the east, Indian occupied Kashmir on the south, the Chinese province of Xinjiang on the north, and Gilgit on the west. dangerously.

Lying in a region characterized by mountains that are stark and rise up to 18,000 feet, gorges that are deep and steep, glaciers that are gigantic and imposing, waterfalls that are fast-flowing and noisy, and lakes that are pure and placid, Skardu is marked by a cool and pleasant climate. During the summers, Baltistan is a popular spot with mountaineers and trekkers from all parts of the world. Over millions of years, the river has cut its course into the rock and the descending beds of the river are evidenced by the ledged and terraced hills that enclose the valley. Today, the sluggish River Indus meanders through stretches of sand dunes and massive rocks scattered all around, making ox-bow lakes.

HISTORY

A study of the history of Skardu involves the history of Baltistan, for Skardu’s history is somewhat synonymous with that of Baltistan.

There is no significant document available concerning the ancient history, literature and culture, culture and traditions, religion and social life of Baltistan. We find the first mention of Baltistan in the Chinese chronicles that talk of an attack on Tibet in 757 AD. At that time, Baltistan was a part of Tibet. However, archeological sites, folk songs, tales that have been passed on from generation to generation and penned documents are some vehicles that take us into the history of Baltistan. Broadly speaking, this history can be divided into three phases: The first phase begins from the dawn of human civilization in Baltistan till 1841. The Dogra rule in Baltistan - from 1941-August 13, 1948. The struggle for independence in Baltistan and its annexation with Pakistan.

According to the historical evidence available, human civilization began in Baltistan before the birth of Buddha in 483 BC. The first people to settle here came from Gilgit via River Indus to Skardu, or those who came via Hunza and Nagar Wadi to Shigar, or those from Ladakh to the valley of Khaploo. In Skardu, early settlements mainly appeared in the areas of Rygyayul, Kachura, Shigari Kalan, Chondah and Biana Maqpo. In the eleventh century, a huge mountain fell into the River Indus, thereby transforming the valley of Skardu into a big lake and forcing the people of the area to migrate. The lowering of the water level of the lake after some time led to a re-habitation of the area. In the early stages, the people who settled in a specific area automatically became its rulers.

The most powerful ruler of this time was Shakar (or Shukar) Rygyayul-fu (in Balti language, Rygyayul-fu means emperor), who ruled till 1437. With Shigari Kalan (located near the present day city of Skardu) his capital, he ruled over the whole of Skardu valley. Even today, the ruins of the great palaces of the Shakar (or Shukar) family can be seen on a mound in Moza Shigari Kalan, about four miles to the south of modern Skardu. They are known by the name of Api Cho Shakar (or Shukar) kay Mahal. After Shakar (or Shukar) Rygyayul-fu, his son, Ghota Chosangay, became the ruler of Skardu. Bugha (1490 - 1515 AD), his son, established the city of Skardu in the fifteenth century.

The Maqpons is the most famous dynasty that ruled over Skardu. In the battle for supremacy with neighboring kingdoms, the Maqpons remained dominant throughout. A clue to their pomp and power can be gathered from the folk songs of the area, in which they are raised to the stature of the descendents of gods. Indeed, it would not be exaggeration to say that the glorious adventures and victories of the Maqpons assigned them a significant place in the history of Baltistan; the history of Baltistan is the history of the rise and fall of the Maqpons.

The Maqpons ruled Baltistan for 115 years, from 1565-1680. Amongst these, the name of Ali Sher Khan Anchan will always remain alive. (In Balti language, Anchan means strong). His rule, from 1580 to 1624, is the golden age in the history of Skardu-Baltistan. This great ruler conquered the areas from Ladakh to Chitral. Consequently, from 1600 to 1710, Baltistan spread from Mansroar, a lake in Tibet, to the valley of Kalash in the east-west, and from the Karakoram mountain range in the extreme north to the northern boundaries of the present day Kohistan Hazara in the north-south.

Ali Sher Khan Anchan married Mindoq Rygyayulfu, the daughter of Jamiang Namagiyal, the ruler of Ladakh. This wise woman was called Gul Khatoon. While expanding the boundaries of his kingdom, Ali Sher Khan Anchan also worked for the progress of his people. These development projects include the building of Sadpara dam, about six miles from Skardu. With the passage of time, this dam has turned into a lake, which largely attracts foreign tourists.

From 1635 to 1660, Adam Khan, the son of Ali Sher Khan Anchan, ruled Skardu after his father. The last autonomous ruler of Skardu, Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was in power from 1800 to 1840. At this time, Haider Khan ruled the valley of Shigar and Mehdi Khan ruled Khaploo. Daulat Khatoon, the second wife of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was the sister of Haider Khan. This influential queen conspired with the elders of Skardu to nominate Mohammad Ali Shah, her own son, as the next king, instead of Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah. This selfishness of Daulat Khatoon led to bad blood in the Maqpon family.

To seek help, Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, went to Kashmir to seek help from Colonel Maan Singh, who was subedar there. Maan Singh recommended him to go to Lahore and consult Ranjeet Singh. Till then, Ranjeet Singh had already ordered Gulab Singh, the Raja of Kashmir, to invade Ladakh. So he handed Mohammad Shah over to Gulab Shah. Till then, Zorawar Singh Dogra, the famous general of Gulab Singh, had started off for Ladakh with an army. Mohammad Shah met Zorawar Singh at Suru and went to Ladakh with him. After conquering Ladakh, Zorawar Singh handed Mohammad Shah to Rygyayulfu Tandoop Namgeer of Ladakh and ordered that he be kept at Ladakh so that aid may be provided to him.

But while Mohammad Shah was at Suru, his maternal uncle met Zorawar Singh and assuring him their assistance, invited him to attack Baltistan. Ahmed Shah was aware of the conspiracy against him. To counteract the expected attack, he made defense arrangements, in the valleys of Shayooq and Sindh, the two ways to Baltistan from Ladakh. In the early months of 1840, Zorawar Singh headed towards Skardu from Shayooq valley as well as from Sindh valley, with his forces concentrated on the route from Kargil to Skardu. In the valleys of Shayooq, the armies of Zorawar Singh had to confront great resistance. Owing to the bunkers of Ahmed Shah’s armies in the Sindh Valley, the Dogra armies could not cross the River Indus. At this point, Ali Sher Khan, the wali (governor) of Kharmang, came to their rescue. With the help of the local people, he provided them a bridge over River Indus in extreme cold. The armies of Ahmed Shah were not expecting this; the Dogra army crossed the bridge and suddenly attacked the opponent.

The armies of Ahmed Shah had to retreat, and he had to restrict himself and his family on the Kharfocho fort neat Skardu. Even after a fifteen-day siege, the Dogra army could not capture the fort. Finally, Ahmed Shah fell a prey to the deception of Ali Sher Khan and surrendered. In 1841, the wali of Shigar, Raja Haider Khan, revolted against the Dogra rule. The rebel was arrested after a bloody battle. Hence, from 1841 to 1948, Baltistan was enslaved by the Dogars; this being the darkest era in the history of Baltistan.

On March 16, 1846, the British government and Gulab Singh, the Maharaja of Kashmir, signed the treaty of Amritsir. According to it, the British government sold the area from Kashmir to the western bank of River Indus to Gulab Singh for a meager amount of Rs. 75,000. Gilgit was also included in this area. But Gulab Singh violated the treaty and in 1852, proceeded to capture the areas on the west of River Indus. The Dogra army faced a crushing defeat in the hands of Raja Gohar Aman of Yasin. And many such attempts of Gulab Singh failed thus. In 1849, the Sikh rule came to an end and Punjab went under the control of the British.

When, in 1947, the news of the struggle for Pakistan reached Baltistan, the Muslims of the area fully supported it. Baltistan was caught in a struggle for independence after November 1, 1947, when Gilgit was freed from Dogra rule. It took the brave people of Baltistan a year to push out the Dogras from their land forever. On January 1, 1949, the cease-fire in Kashmir also put an end to the war between Baltistan and the Dogars.

HISTORICAL SITES

The present day progressive town of Skardu differs from the Skardu of the past. In the past two decades, in the past two decades, Skardu and its vicinity has undergone extensive plantation, resulting in an admirable expanse of greenery. Poplar trees, lined along roads, not only beautify the place but also offer the opportunity of a refreshing stroll.

Walking through the bazaar, you will come across a small traffic island with a memorial to those who laid down their lives for the sake of their country. North from the traffic island is the walled tomb of Abbas Alamdar, a Shiite saint. On the east side of the bazaar is Satellite Town, which extends eastward as far as an aqueduct. This dates back to the fifteenth century, and its base consists of large granite blocks. The Skardu Polo ground and the Kharfocho Fort are to the east of this aqueduct.

Kharfocho Fort

In strategic terms, Skardu is located at the foot of a big rock. On this rock is a relic of history: the Kharfocho Fort, he king of forts, also known as Askandria. This maze of low doors, dark passages and steep wooden steps dates back to the sixteenth century. However, opinions differ regarding the constructor of this fort. Hishatullah has attributed it to Maqpon Bugha (1490 - 1515 AD), the great grandfather of Ali Sher Khan Anchan (1580 - 1625 AD). But Mughal historians and European writers, such as Cunningham, Foso Marine, and G. T. Vagne are positive that the great fort was built by Ali Sher Khan Anchan himself. The location and construction of this fort demonstrates the warfare and architectural genius of its constructor.

Mindoq Khar

Gul Khatoon ordered the construction of this magnificent palace and garden at the foot of Kharfocho Fort. The palace, named after the queen, was called Mindoq Khar, meaning flower palace. When Maharaja Gulab Singh, the Sikh ruler of Kashmir, invaded Skardu in 1840 AD, his troops destroyed this palace. The ruins of this palace can still be seen.

Because this palace and garden were located at a point higher than Skardu, the queen linked this palace to Lake Sadpara, five miles from Skardu, by a canal to bring water to it. Even though four hundred years have passed, the canal is still a witness to the intelligence of this queen.

Hilal Bagh and Chahar Bagh

These royal gardens were laid out on the orders of Gul Khatoon, the wife of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. Hilal Bagh was a terraced garden with fountains built in marble. It spread from Mindoq Khan to the present day bazaar of Skardu, where the road crosses the channel. In its midst stood a marble palace that was destroyed during the great floods after the death of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. Later, a baradari was constructed in its place. Chahar Bagh, the other garden, once stood where is now a Girls College. These gardens were given Persian names because Persian was the mother tongue of the queen.

Buddhist Rock

On Satpara Road in Skardu valley, you will come across the one surviving Buddhist Rock with rock carvings. This tall rock was carved in with an image of a meditating Maitreya Buddha. It has been suggested that these rock carvings and images of Buddha can be placed in the period of Great Tibet Scholars Empire in 900 AD. When the Buddhists of Gandhara migrated from their land, they passed through the present day northern areas of Pakistan, they set up temporary settlements at some places and carved drawings of Stupas, scenes of their experiences, and images of Buddha with texts in Kharoshti language. Either these rocks are lost in the Satpara Lake, or were utilized as building material by Ali Sher Khan Anchan.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Satpara Lake

This lake lies 8 km (5 miles) south of Skardu. Set in a landscape of high mountains clothed in glaciers, this blue-water lake has an island in its midst. It is known for its brown trout, and is an ideal fishing spot.

Kachura Lake

It is located at a distance of 32 kms (20 miles) from Skardu. The spring season invests the banks of the lake with an array of multi-colored flowers and trees that are laden with peach, apricot and apple blossoms. The lake has been developed as a tourist resort with many hotels and motels, and is a popular anglers resort for trout fishing.

Deosai Plateau

This plateau lies 32 km to the southwest of Skardu and can be reached via the Satpara Lake. It has an average height of 3,500 meters (11,660 feet), is 70 km across, and links Baltistan with the Astore Valley.

Deosai plateau is the habitat of wild animals, especially the greatly threatened Himalayan Brown Bear. Today, it has been turned into park that shelters and protects wildlife. The land is covered with snow for seven months of the year. In spring, vast stretches of green and thousands of wild flowers are intercepted by crystal clear streams and backed by snow-covered peaks.

Shigar Valley

To explore the mass of Karakoram Mountains that are heaped in the north and east of Skardu, go through the ancient village of Shigar. This is the gateway to a wonderland for trekkers and mountaineers, where there are some of the largest and dangerous glaciers of the world, including the famous Baltoro glacier. Of the fifteen highest peaks of the world, five peaks, over 8000 meters (including K-2, 8,611 meters), are located at the head of the Baltoro glacier.

Many springs in Shigar valley are reverenced for mineral water that helps in the cure of skin diseases. The village is set in a green, picturesque valley made brilliant and colorful by an abundance of fruit trees. The various fruits grown here include apples, walnuts, peaches, grapes, pears and apricots. The region is renowned for its apples and apricots. You can also visit the oldest Mosque of the area, called Karbala-e-Muala.

GETTING THERE

The Karakoram Highway and another 170 km long highway connects Skardu to other parts of Pakistan. an easier and quicker way to get there is by air. Skardu has an airport with daily jet flights from Rawalpindi / Islamabad. These, however, are dependent on weather conditions.